Cairo's Ful Vendors - بياع الفول
With his cart tucked beneath a highway overpass, just beside the railroad tracks and behind a parked taxi, Farouk Salem darted his eyes back and forth nervously as he awaited customers.
On most days, except during Ramadan, the sun has barely risen and worshipers are shuffling out of the nearby mosque after morning prayers as the first customers make their way to Mr. Salem. A few quick flicks of a ladle, the shaking of a bottle or two, and breakfast is ready.
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Two ladles of pasty beans. A few splashes of a vinegar spice mixture called daqa. A splash of oil. A dollop of tahini, a sesame paste. A touch of salt, a sprinkle of red pepper, finished off with a bit of lemon juice. Ful is not eaten with a spoon, not outside the fancy five-star restaurants that have tried to glamorize the meal and inflate the price. It is eaten with flat, round pieces of bread, like pita, known in colloquial Egyptian as “aish,” which also means life.
From the NYT (A Hand on the Ladle, and an Eye Out for the Law )
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